Dermocosmetic patches are a breakthrough resulting from centuries of experience. More than 3,000 years ago, Chinese and Egyptians began to use various pharmaceutical preparations on different parts of the body to treat a wide variety of diseases. Over time, these preparations became more complex and evolved into the transdermal patches we know today. 

Today, patches are used for the treatment or relief of symptoms of many diseases such as Alzheimer‘s or Parkinson’s disease. However, there is a growing use of dermocosmetic patches for purely aesthetic purposes. 

In this article, we will address what they can be used for, what the different types are and what benefits they bring to those who use them. 

What are dermocosmetic patches used for, and what are their benefits

The neck, neckline, cheekbones, or forehead are the common areas where these cosmetic products are used. Easy to apply, dermocosmetic patches allow the administration of vitamins, peptides, and minerals in sessions of up to thirty minutes. 

The most frequent reasons cited by users when choosing these products are:

• the knowledge of the brands that manufacture them, 
• the interest in certain active ingredients, 
• the convenience of application and 
• the variety of effects that can be achieved on the skin in a short period of time. 

This format has advantages over other typical formats in the cosmetic world, such as creams, serums, and ointments. Thanks to the use of dermocosmetic patches, people achieve greater efficacy in the delivery of active ingredients of interest, the phase favors moisture retention and increases the prolonged action of the active components, while ensuring greater stability of sensitive ingredients and less skin irritation. 

It is for this reason that the cosmetic industry has specialized and is able to offer these products for multiple cosmetic purposes. There are patches on the market to nourish the skin, to moisturize, with antioxidants or with regenerative properties, to name just a few of the most common.

Types of dermocosmetic patches

The types of dermocosmetic patches used to meet these objectives can be classified into three major groups:

Hydrogel patches

These are thin, transparent patches made of a gel matrix composed mainly of water and polymers. They are largely moisturizing and cooling.

Paper patches

These are thin sheets of paper or tissue impregnated with active ingredients. They can have a variety of functions such as moisturizing, soothing or treating specific skin problems such as acne.

Occlusive patches

These are devices that hermetically seal the skin to create a protective barrier and increase the penetration of active ingredients into the skin, in a moisture-controlled environment.

How dermo-cosmetic patches work and how long their effect lasts

To answer this question, it is important to note that when designing these products, it is necessary to consider the functioning of the skin and the structures that compose it. 

Generally speaking, it can be said that the skin is made up of three main layers: epidermis, dermis, and hypodermis. The first two are responsible for the exchange of substances and moisture with the environment and is the area where dermocosmetic patches work.

The epidermis is a section up to 2 mm thick, divided into 5 parts. The first part, the stratum corneum, is mainly composed of dead cells full of Keratin, surrounded by an intercellular matrix made up of lipids and fatty acids. In order to facilitate the penetration of the active ingredients through the stratum corneum, it is a good idea to transport them in a lipophilic medium.

The dermis is also between 1.5 and 4 mm thick and is largely composed of collagen and elastin fibers, which provide the skin with resistance and elasticity. Also at this level are various structures such as blood vessels, nerve endings, sebaceous glands, and hair follicles, as well as a set of proteins that provide structural support and promote the repair and regeneration of this tissue. The high water content of this layer makes it an excellent target for hydrophilic actives.

Since the skin is a dynamic organ, it is important to consider cellular metabolic processes and their influence on cosmetic treatments. Therefore, it is worth noting that most of the effects achieved (smoother skin, hydration, reduction of expression lines, etc.) are short-lasting, even for those active ingredients with high skin penetration capacity. 

To achieve longer-lasting effects, it is therefore necessary to apply the patches regularly, either daily, weekly or monthly.

What active ingredients can be contained in these patches

With these considerations, it is possible to choose active ingredients with defined purposes and that act on specific areas of the skin, avoiding irritation and adverse reactions. 

• Hyaluronic Acid, for example, acts on both epidermis and dermis, moisturizes the skin and allows other active ingredients to penetrate the skin barrier more easily. 

• Vegetable oils (Rosehip, Shea, etc.) are located in the epidermis where they prevent moisture loss while delivering nutrients. 

• Niacinamide or vitamin B3, on the other hand, promotes the production of ceramides (a type of lipid) in the dermis and improves the skin’s barrier function. 

In conclusion, transdermal patches have evolved from their beginnings in ancient medicine to become a versatile tool in modern cosmetics. Their ease of use and efficacy in delivering active ingredients make them very popular for different aesthetic treatments. In addition, they offer significant advantages over other cosmetic formats and allow highly customized treatments to be designed.  

Sources:

• Pastore, M. N., Kalia, Y. N., Horstmann, M., & Roberts, M. S. (2015). Transdermal patches: history, development and pharmacology. British Journal Of Pharmacology, 172(9), 2179-2209. https://doi.org/10.1111/bph.13059 
• What’s driving increased skin care patch usage? (s. f.). https://gcimagazine.texterity.com/gcimagazine/october_2023/MobilePagedArticle.action?articleId=1918338#articleId1918338
• Structure and Function of the Skin, Editor(s): James G. Marks, Jeffrey J. Miller, Lookingbill and Marks’ Principles of Dermatology (Sixth Edition), Elsevier, 2019, Pages 2-10, https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-323-43040-1.00002-6.
• Dermis – structure, location, diagram, anatomy, function. (s. f.). https://anatomy.co.uk/dermis/